Sandalwood flooring, leather armchairs, and black walls sporting a library of wine bottles; Den Bar is an old-school alternative to Hoan Kiem’s generally characterless selection of watering holes.

Some streetfood dishes are tasty, while others are on another planet, such as mi quang. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Zoe Osborne

Situated at the corner of Mac Thi Buoi and Phan Van Dat, on the location once occupied by Seoul House, Soi & Meo Taproom is a hangout opened just after Tet. To explain the name Soi & Meo (wolf and cat), Quynh, the bar manager, says: “It’s inspired by America, where animals are used to name their bars.”

Something feels different upon stepping inside Layla for the first time that sets it apart from other cocktail bars in the same category around Saigon. It could be the floor-to-ceiling windows that bookend the space and allow the last of the fading afternoon light to filter in before the sun dips behind the buildings along Dong Khoi Street below.

Now the secret is well and truly out, our mystery diner goes to check out one of Saigon’s best loved restaurants. Photos by Mike Palumbo

Most street food joints are aimed at everyone. But often you find places whose target customer is the thrifty student. Words by Edward Dalton. Photos by Teigue John Blokpoel

One of the best things about Hanoi is the hidden cafés. Better yet is the surprise you get when you come across a café you’ve never seen before on a street you go down every day.

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