The turbulence of the last 150 years has meant that much of Vietnam’s architectural heritage has been erased. Take, for example, the labyrinthine alleyways of Hanoi's Old Quarter. Few of the shop houses in this maze of 36 streets are original. Villages such as Co Nhue, Yen Phu and An Duong that have been absorbed into the wider area of Hanoi have shared the same fate. The traditional brick-built, wooden-framed houses erected around a central courtyard have been knocked down. The land has been divided into smaller blocks, and over time newer, multi-storey edifices have emerged built from concrete and cheap brick.
The face and brains behind French restobar Le Paul Conti, from starting as a young trainee at Hoa Sua Training Restaurant, Hai Ha has become one of the first French-trained sommeliers to ply his trade in Vietnam.
Once a collection of lotus seed farms, in less than 20 years To Ngoc Van has transformed itself from rural poverty to one of the most desirable areas in the city. Yet it’s not all wealth and Bentley Continentals. Ali Waugh spends 24 hours in this endearing Tay Ho suburb. Photos by Nguyen Bao Ngoc
This month marks the 10th anniversary of one of Hanoi’s most unlikely but successful pairings: a female Vietnamese restaurateur with Indian cuisine. Hoang Minh Hue from Foodshop 45 spills the lentils